ive just spent ten days in eastern java. its a place called grajagan that is famous for one thing, and that is surf. there is nothing else there except a fishing village forty minute boat ride away. its really a magical place. i surfed on one day with this guy from san clemente named blaine. we walked down the beach because g-land was huge and closed out. we ended up finding this left hand reef that spun and went for a couple hundred yards and we were the only ones out. it was so remote that we couldnt even see any sign of human life around anywhere. the days after that the surf got a bit smaller and i got some great barrels at g-land. it is such a fun wave. it isnt as perfect as i had thought but there are some that come through and are real gems. one of the other things that was cool is i got to be a part of a indonesian full moon party that included all of the traditional dress. they actually had me dance with these girls..five times. it was a lot of fun because the indos are very warm and inclusive, everybody is welcome to their parties. the area i stayed in was a bit buggy at the end when it started raining but other than that it felt like paradise. it was different being removed from everyone for that long but it was really cool. im glad i spent as much time as i could there because it is really different from everywhere else i have been. i got to see monitor lizards too which was cool, they get really big. the monkeys there are not afraid of you and will steal your stuff if you dont look but i still like having them around. the real surprise was seeing a huge sea turtle pop up while i was surfing there. im really excited to get leave and get to australia now. should be fun to see jeremy and the heussemstams.
Wednesday, October 19, 2005
Previous Posts
- so today might be my last post for at least a week...
- so after a long haul on planes and in the airport ...
- durban, south africa dan left a few days ago, but ...
- so today is my last day in jeffrey's bay. it was ...
- ive returned to jeffreys bay yesterday. dan and i...
- in jeffreys bay right now, this place is unreal. y...
- today is my last day in europe. its a really stran...
- i fulfilled one of my dreams yesterday. i surfed m...
- ive now left hossegor france, and i am in bilbao s...
- so the other day after jason threw my shoe in the ...

0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home