so the other day after jason threw my shoe in the tree my dad came to the rescue and threw a rock at it and knocked it down. ive been spending all of my time in the water. the last few days have been really good. today was the first day that its been crappy. two days ago it was pretty good size and windswelly so it was hard for me to even paddle out. i got two waves but im out of paddling shape so when i tried to paddle back out i got hammered. yesterday the surf got a little smaller and the conditions were perfect. overhead, warm glassy barrels for four hours. there werent many surfers in the water so that was nice as well. im still feeling really rusty surfing but that will be rid of in due time. it looks like steve and tom are going to get into hossegor sometime today, ill pick them up, surf and drink for a few days with the whole crew and then ill follow them back to san sebastian for a few days. the surf is supposed to be really good on saturday sunday and monday so im looking forward to being in the water. i keep having a ridiculously good time in france, despite what most americans think the french are some of the coolest people on the planet and will go out of their way to help you. i really love this place.
my mom has gotten scottie, reynnie, jason and me hooked on these number puzzles called sudoku. it has become a small obsession amoungst us, scottie even looked up sudoku tips on the internet today. yes we're nerds...i dont care though