Friday, October 07, 2005

so after a long haul on planes and in the airport i finally made it to bali. this place is really different from most places i have been. its like mexico in paradise. there are crappy taxis spewing smog and even more insane moped drivers everywhere. its definitely one of the most difficult places i have ever seen for driving. but then you get to the beaches and there are these huge green cliffs that go right to the ocean. once you get down to the beach there are these caves that are enormous. its really crazy to see a place like that. then you get to the wave, uluwatu, which is about as long a wave as i have ever surfed. im going to say that for the conditions i got uluwatu was much longer than jeffrey's bay was. and you go so fast on it. it couldnt have hurt that i got it really solid size. it was actually too big to surf the normal part of ulus so i surfed outside corner which really lines up and fires. i felt like rob machado in september sessions when he is just going up to the top of the wave to go fast back down it. it was really cool. my new board seems to work well, i definitely got some good waves on it. it would have been cool if ulus was doing the whole barreling thing, but im not going to get too persnickety. im also really excited because i just booked a seven day adventure to grajagan (g-land) which will only cost 350 all inclusive. i even get three beers a day on that food allowance. it should be insane because ive heard that it just fires, which will be really fun. im actually thinking about extending the trip to 10 days for an extra 150. i mean i like bali but its not my sort of place to be by myself. i rather have the surf in the wilderness, all you have is a book sort of thing when im by myself. anyway, im hungry, which should precipitate into me leaving

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