Monday, December 12, 2005

i made it out of new plymouth and up the coast back to raglan. i knew it was going to be really small here, but the winds have been northeasterly so it means that the beach break, ruapuke, would be good. yesterday was really fun but it had an unfortunate accident. i pulled into a right hand close out barrel (backside for me) and the board clocked me upside the head. i didnt think much about it until i saw blood dripping from my head into the water. needless to say, the surf session was ended. i had to spend about two hours in the doctors office but it was succesfull. the doctor just superglued the cut back together. he said i could even still surf, which made me really happy. so i went back out today to ruapuke and brought a lunch and surfed all day. in the morning it was bigger but mushier and in the afternoon this little left hand speed wave popped up and i had to have gotten at least fifteen barrels. and the best part is no more bleeding from the head.
i got a bit of a drive tomorrow, im going up to kaitaia, about eight hours. no big deal. im at one week and counting so it appears that im actually going home.

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