today is my last full day in australia, i leave tomorrow at 6:20 for sydney and then i have a noon flight to new zealand. as it turns out the swell (a big one) has decided to postpone itself for the day that i leave. nevertheless today was really fun, i got to surf duranbah which i hadnt surfed yet. it was still a bit overhead and really hard offshore. it was a lot of fun. its cool to surf in trunks all the time. although with the wind it made me really want a wetsuit jacket. the wind ended up picking up so hard that it was blowing people all over the place. if you left your board in the sand it would blow down the beach. probably not going to surf again unless the swell gets big enough to wrap around and get snapper. it doesnt really matter to me. if the swell stays down ill just continue to keep track of the ucla game and read my tom robbins book.
Tuesday, November 15, 2005
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