Monday, December 19, 2005

so today is the last day. im supposedly heading off on the 7 30 flight to la but my ticket has the flight number of the 11 pm flight home. im really hoping that i can get on the earlier flight but im not really worried about it. im thinking that today will crawl by because of all the waiting but im sure itll seem like it flew by (pun intended) when i get home. im definitely looking forward to going home. the swell of the year is supposedly going to hit so that will definitely add to the return. it looks like a steady dose of family, friends, rincon, trestles, sports and food over the next few weeks, so basically all the good stuff. ive talked to a few of my family over the last few days and it sounds like they are actually looking forward for me to come home. the only person that might have anything against my return is scottie, but that is because he will lose my bed when i get back. sounds like everything is ready for me so i might as well start my trip.

Monday, December 12, 2005

i made it out of new plymouth and up the coast back to raglan. i knew it was going to be really small here, but the winds have been northeasterly so it means that the beach break, ruapuke, would be good. yesterday was really fun but it had an unfortunate accident. i pulled into a right hand close out barrel (backside for me) and the board clocked me upside the head. i didnt think much about it until i saw blood dripping from my head into the water. needless to say, the surf session was ended. i had to spend about two hours in the doctors office but it was succesfull. the doctor just superglued the cut back together. he said i could even still surf, which made me really happy. so i went back out today to ruapuke and brought a lunch and surfed all day. in the morning it was bigger but mushier and in the afternoon this little left hand speed wave popped up and i had to have gotten at least fifteen barrels. and the best part is no more bleeding from the head.
i got a bit of a drive tomorrow, im going up to kaitaia, about eight hours. no big deal. im at one week and counting so it appears that im actually going home.

Friday, December 09, 2005

im in new plymouth, nz, back on the north island. im really happy to be back on the north island because the surf here is much better and warmer. new plymouth is an especially good area of surf. its located on the northern part of the taranaki peninsula south of raglan. it has so many good surf breaks its ridiculous. because the surf hasnt been big i have been going to the swell magnets. i have only surfed stent road, which is the best wave on the taranaki coast line. its a really fun right hand point break that feels a lot like lowers, but without the left. the unbelievable thing is today when i surfed, it was completely uncrowded at ten on a saturday morning. there was even a bit of surf and there was still no one out. i think this is why i like new zealand so much, there are so many good, surfable waves and they very rarely have more than five guys in the water. its really amazing.
the town of new plymouth is also one of my favorite towns because its not miniscule but you can walk the whole downtown really easily. there is a ton of stuff to do and its a really young area. i have two more nights here and then im going to go up to raglan for a day or two and then head up to the northland. looks like the trip is coming to an end.

Sunday, December 04, 2005

okay, so everyones dream is to surf empty lineups. well today i learned that is not my dream. i like uncrowded lineups but empty ones are a bit spooky. i surfed today at a place called tauranga bay on the west coast of the south island. it is a gorgeous bay with a fun little left hander on the south end of it. on my drive down the coast i saw literally hundreds of places to surf without a single person in the water. while i was in the water i definitely got a little spooked because there were all these jellyfish floating around. big pink jellyfish. on top of that there were also little blue bottles (portuguese man o war) floating around as well. but here is the spookiness clincher. it was murky water only a km away from a seal colony. now im one of those people who actually read about shark attacks and it comes to my recollection that most of these attacks happen somewhere around seal colonies or seals or something along those lines. so im not sure if im going to surf much there. or maybe i will but make sure that there are actually people in the lineup when i do. then i have feel more comfortable.
but now im safe and sound. im looking forward to getting back up to the north island. i was reading about this wave called shipwrecks up in kaitaia and it sounds like it is really a class wave. also stent road on the taranaki coast sounds cool, a big muscley right point. i havent heard from dougie but i assume that ill will and hopefully ill see him there.

Wednesday, November 30, 2005

today i went bungy jumping. it was a lot of fun. a unique experience. im going to stay in queentown a few more days and then head up the west coast. uhh...i guess thats all.

Monday, November 28, 2005

not much has happened in the last few days, i guess im just writing because im bored. today i drove down the coast, a plesant little five hour skeedaddle to a town called dunedin. i really like it a lot more than christchurch, much better atmosphere. the surf is supposed to be kinda fun tomorrow so ill get in the water. i think the day after im going to make my way over to queenstown. it looks like the west coast will have a bit of surf when i get back over there. so i have more beers in the fridge.
i surfed in dunedin today, which is about as far south as i have ever surfed. it was at this little beachie down the street from the hostel. the water was crystal clear and the wave was pretty fun. the only thing that was weird was the amount of monster black donut shaped jelly fish that were floating all around the water. i hope they arent poisonous because i plan on going surfing around the area tomorrow as well before i go up to queenstown.

Friday, November 25, 2005

its thanksgiving back home right now. it was weird to call home and talk to everyone that was there. it sounds like thanksgiving was a good time back home. everyone seemed to be in good spirits. it was especially nice to talk to my grandpa because after being in back pain for over a year he has finally recovered from surgery and made it out to the golf course for the first time in a while. it was fun for him as well because while he was hurt the people at his home course renovated all the greens and so he got to play the course in good condition. it was also good talking to my dad because he was interested in where i am. when i told him that i was in kaikoura he started telling me about a place where he lived and surfed for a few weeks when he was in new zealand. it just happened that i surfed that place on the way down to kaikoura. its called hapuku and its a fun little right hand point break. the surf was really fun but what was most shocking was the extreme temperature shift coming down to the south island. i was in a 4/3 and booties in comparison to my 2/2 short arm full that i wore while i was in the north island. i was talking to these irish guys last night and they were saying how i should go down to queenstown and go bungee jumping there. i saw the video and it looks like a lot of fun. i might have to try it out. as for now im just relaxing in kaikoura, ill probably just read a bit for the next few days and then head out to christchurch on sunday.
to all back home, have a happy thanksgiving and i hope to see you soon